Emily, Helen and a Mosque

Sometimes it can be very difficult to travel alone, especially when you don't know more than a handful of words in the local language. And then there are other times when the only other person on your overnight train car who speaks English is a gorgeous 22-year old girl.

This was one of those times.

Enjoying the respite of spending ten minutes explaining to my persistent onlookers than I'm American and traveling alone in China for a month, Emily and I relaxed with some beers in the restaurant car and agreed to meet up the next night. Saying goodbye when the train pulled into Xi'an, I threw my bags down at my hostel and headed into the streets of this new city.

There are plenty of things to like about Xi'an, another walled city like Ping Yao, yet substantially bigger. It has a large Muslim quarter, unique among my travels in China so far. Walking under the old stone gate and wandering among the never-ending tables of both Chinese and Muslim gift stands, I'm reminded of my days in Israel, where I often passed the time after school walking amidst the local market. But this was not the Muslim feeling I had in the Middle East, this was China and when I entered the Great Mosque I felt a calming sensation come over me that I had not had in any mosque before. It was as if Mohammed himself had settled down in China for some tea and noodles.

Outside the Muslim Quarter at the center of town is a large public square, full of people both day and night. On my way back to the hostel, I roamed among the locals, sharing smiles and occasional words, everyone out enjoying the last hours of day before the night took over. Men were selling all kinds of kites that seemed to disappear in the clouds to the amazement of the kids. As I turned my back on the activity to head home, a small but definitive 'Hello' sounded from somewhere below. I looked down to my greeter, a young girl named Helen of no more than five or six years out with her mom. Kneeling down, I had as long a conversation with little Helen as I had had with most Chinese people. Her English was quite good, and her kindergarten frame spoke with the authority of schoolteacher. It was the cutest experience of my trip so far.

Later that night, I met up with Emily at the square. We went to dinner in the Muslim Quarter, undoubtedly home to the best food in Xi'an. Drinks and dancing afterward wrapped up one of the most heartwarming days I've had in China. Tomorrow I go to see the famous Terra Cotta Warriors, the main draw of Xi'an. But to me, as with most places I've been in China so far, the main draw is the people, whether they're 22 or 6.